Sabbatical RuHu

Italy


Rome, Italy Feb 13 to 17 2003

Rome is a great city, as everyone knows.  You simply wander around the town, blundering into monument after monument.  We went to all the famous tourist sites, plus many we don't know, and had a great time.

Our hotel was a few blocks from the Spanish Steps, with our own private terrace overlooking the city.  Very nice, but very expensive.  Need to find cheaper digs, or our 6-month trip will be 3 months.

Yesterday there was a large antiwar demonstration.  They say one million people, wandering around with PACE (Peace flags), and communist flags.  One couple overheard our American Accents, and gave us very dirty looks, and moved away from us.  Beth glared back.  I was too slow to say anything.  So we would not be identified as Fascist warmongers, I used my three phrases of Russian from High School and Beth used her few phrases in German.  

We are renting a car, and moving on to Florence this morning.  I am on my way to pick it up.  Driving in Rome traffic is a great challenge, and I may spend the rest of the day getting lost.


Florence 16 to 21 Feb 2003
We spent 5 days in Florence at the Pagnini Hotel near the Arno River.  Very nice place. The art is of course tremendous.  Eye Candy everywhere you turn. Cathedrals & museums everywhere. Beth's favorite is the David sculpture.  He makes me feel just a little inadequate.


We drove from Rome to Florence.  Easy to drive into but I made the mistake of driving in the evening for a short tour.  We got into a do loop at the train station, made about 4 circuits around the station.  Beth says it took two hours, more like 25 minutes, but still bad. She was ready to abandon ship.
 
It is cold here.  Looking out at the snow covered Alps I can see how depressed my father was in World War II, thinking about the next year. His Division fought all through North Africa and Italy, so had two years in the mountains in the snow and mud in foxholes, and anticipated a third before the end of the war.  Saw several old pill boxes.  Looks like a fun place to fight.

The churches here are incredible.  As a protestant, I sometimes think that it was a shame to spend all the money on the incredible size and art in the churches, but if they had not made that expense, the art would not have been produced or preserved.  So I thank the Catholics for that. My father was 
blessed by the Pope during World War II at the Vatican, and so was I while on leave from Vietnam.  A fellow traveler told us we were thus Catholics by virtue of the blessing.  So be it.

Took day trips to Sienna and San Gimignano.   Both great Italian Hill Towns. Medieval walls around small towns.

________________



SHOPPING IS FOR THE BIRDS, or,






How Beth gets a discount.



Beth decided to purchase a purse in Florence, Italy, in the open air market. She had run low on money and could not find an ATM. She looked at a purse that cost more money than she had. The shop keeper dropped the price in half, then lowered the price 5 more Euros to match the funds Beth had available. She told Beth that "I will give it to you for good luck. It is always good to help someone who has just had an accident."


Beth did not understand, presuming that something had been lost in the translation. The lady again told Beth that it is good luck to help someone who has had an accident. Beth did not know to what she referred. The lady told Beth that a pigeon had "left its mark" on Beth's back. The lady helped Beth clean up her sweater, and then sent her on her way with the good luck purse.






_____

The good news is, however, that we blundered into carnival. So we bought masks and joined the frivolity.

Lots of concerts, plays, etc. I was captured by some girls who I think performed an exorcism on me, although I was not sure. I had a Phantom mask on, so I guess I am a bad guy. They threw me on a mattress, muttered Italian over me, and made gestures as if to pull my heart out. They also searched my pockets for money. They did not find any, but I enjoyed it. My father advises that they learned this from their grandmothers, who apparently did the same thing in World War II.

Took several boat trips, including a gondola ride. We were too cheap the last time we were here, so this time we did it. Also went to another island to a glass factory, where we bought a small fortune in blown glass.

The canals and walkways in Venice are enchanting. Shops everywhere. Completely confused road network - they clearly needed a good city planner here in the early days.

We really like Venice. It is beautiful, but expensive.

We were supposed to go on to Lake Como today for 4 days, then up to Stuttgart to get the car. Then back to Florence to get the rest of our luggage, and probably mail some home. However, the Italian railroad is on strike, so we are marooned in Venice for another day. Went back and forth on a boat to
the rail terminal. Not too great a tragedy.

Lago di Como (Lake Como) -- Wednesday 2/26
We ended up staying in Venice an extra night because there was a 12 hour rail strike and we could not get out until 11 p.m. It was a real hardship. Carnival was great.

We stayed at the Marcos Hotel in Como. We asked our driver to take us to a three star on the lake. It is perfect as it has accesss to the town and the lake. We overlook the lake from two windows, and the mountain with the funiculare (track railroad on the third). Only 2.5 flights of stairs to the room. We rode the funiculare to the top of a 1500 foot mountain, and hiked around a little.

We took a slow boat yesterday around the south part of the lake, and will take a fast one about half way down the lake today. It is truly stunning here.  Italy has been one fesitval for the eyes.

Tommorrow we leave for Stutgartt to pick up Beths little red convertible.  She wants to name it Genevieve, or GiGi for short.  I point out the car is German, so Gertrude or Gerty for short would be a better name.

Rome, Italy Feb 13 to 17 2003

Rome, Italy Feb 13 to 17 2003

Rome is a great city, as everyone knows. You simply wander around the town, blundering into monument after monument. We went to all the famous tourist sites, plus many we don't know, and had a great time.

Our hotel was a few blocks from the Spanish Steps, with our own private terrace overlooking the city. Very nice, but very expensive. Need to find cheaper digs, or our 6-month trip will be 3 months.

Yesterday there was a large antiwar demonstration. They say one million people, wandering around with PACE (Peace flags), and communist flags. One couple overheard our American Accents, and gave us very dirty looks, and moved away from us. Beth glared back. I was too slow to say anything. So we would not be identified as Fascist warmongers, I used my three phrases of Russian from High School and Beth used her few phrases in German.

Florence

We are renting a car, and moving on to Florence this morning. I am on my way to pick it up. Driving in Rome traffic is a great challenge, and I may spend the rest of the day getting lost.Florence 16 to 21 Feb 2003

We spent 5 days in Florence at the Pagnini Hotel near the Arno River. Very nice place. The art is of course tremendous. Eye Candy everywhere you turn. Cathedrals & museums everywhere. Beth's favorite is the David sculpture. He makes me feel just a little inadequate.

We drove from Rome to Florence. Easy to drive into but I made the mistake of driving in the evening for a short tour. We got into a doo loop at the train station, made about 4 circuits around the station. Beth says it took two hours, more like 25 minutes, but still bad. She was ready to abandon ship.

It is cold here. Looking out at the snow covered Alps I can see how depressed my father was in World War II, thinking about the next year. His Division fought all through North Africa and Italy, so had two years in the mountains in the snow and mud in foxholes, and anticipated a third before the end of the war. Saw several old pill boxes. Looks like a fun place to
fight.

The churches here are incredible. As a protestant, I sometimes think that it was a shame to spend all the money on the incredible size and art in the churches, but if they had not made that expense, the art would not have been produced or preserved. So I thank the Catholics for that. My father was blessed by the Pope during World War II at the Vatican, and so was I while on leave from Vietnam. A fellow traveler told us we were thus Catholics by virtue of the blessing. So be it.

Took day trips to Sienna and San Gimignano. Both great Italian Hill Towns. Medieval walls around small towns.

Florence to Venice

Venice 21 to 24 Feb 2003

Seasoned world travelers that we are, we had a fine trip from Florence to Venice. First I misread the time and got us to the train station over an hour early. I raced Beth over to the station because I thought we were late, making her very unhappy. Then we got on the wrong train car. Had to fight through traffic to get our bags off that car, run to the other end of the train, hen get on the right car. Beth then got into a tiff with a guy over the placement of her purse. Then it took forever to find our hotel in Venice. We wandered around lost for about one hour.

The good news is, however, that we blundered into carnival. So we bought masks and joined the frivolity.

Lots of concerts, plays, etc. I was captured by some girls who I think performed an exorcism on me, although I was not sure. I had a Phantom mask on, so I guess I am a bad guy. They threw me on a mattress, muttered Italian over me, and made gestures as if to pull my heart out.   They also searched my pockets for money. They did not find any, but I enjoyed it. My father advises that they learned this from their grandmothers, who apparently did the same thing in World War II.

Took several boat trips, including a gondola ride. We were too cheap the last time we were here, so this time we did it. Also went to another island to a glass factory, where we bought a small fortune in blown glass.

The canals and walkways in Venice are enchanting.   Shops everywhere. Completely confused road network - they clearly needed a good city planner here in the early days. We really like Venice. It is beautiful, but expensive.

We were supposed to go on to Lake Como today for 4 days, then up to Stuttgart to get the car. Then back to Florence to get the rest of our luggage, and probably mail some home. However, the Italian railroad is on strike, so we are marooned in Venice for another day.   Went back and forth on a boat to the rail terminal. Not too great a tragedy.Lago di Como (Lake Como) -- Wednesday 2/26

We ended up staying in Venice an extra night because there was a 12 hour rail strike and we could not get out until 11 p.m. It was a real hardship. Carnival was great.

We stayed at the Marcos Hotel in Como. We asked our driver to take us to a three star on the lake. It is perfect as it has accesss to the town and the lake. We overlook the lake from two windows, and the mountain with the funiculare (track railroad on the third). Only 2.5 flights of stairs to the room. We rode the funiculare to the top of a 1500 foot mountain, and hiked
around a little. We took a slow boat yesterday around the south part of the lake, and will take a fast one about half way down the lake today. It is truly stunning here. Italy has been one fesitval for the eyes.

Stuttgart then back to the Riviera

Stuttgart then back to the Riviera -- March 2003

We picked up Beth's car in Stuttgart, Germany. Beth was able to get four big suitcases in the trunk of our little car. She is a miracle worker.

During our stay in Stuttgart, we got involved in the Stuttgart-Glasgow football (soccer) game -- a playoff game. Very big deal in Europe. There were 15,000 Scottsmen in Stuttgart, most of them drunk and very loud. They were wearing their team colors, and shouting and singing all over the town. Looks like lots of fun, but close to a riot. We enjoyed it.

We drove back south to get some of our luggage and computer in Florence. We stayed in Switzerland one night, then at an Army base in Vicenza, Italy. The computer was still not ready, so we stayed in rather palatial Army Colonel's quarters near Pisa/Livorno, Italy for three days of R & R. We had two bedrooms, two baths, living room, dining room, kitchen, patio, etc. It was a very nice base near the beach with enormous pine trees (over sixty feet high with great shade), named for Colonel Darby of WWII Army Ranger fame, I think. In Pisa, we visited the leaning tower, and lots of nice hill and beachtowns.

Heading For Spain, Driving the Perimeter of Southern Europe

The computer was never fixed, so we finally gave up, and moved along the coast to visit friends in Santa Magarita, Italy. This is a very nice town. We stayed in Menton, another attractive seaside community on the French/Italian border, near Monte Carlo.

We then went to Cadaques, Spain, a small, isolated fishing village that takes a long mountain drive to reach. We spent three nice days there. Today we moved down to a town that I can´t remember the name of. Just now someone threw a large cherry bomb into the internet cafe. I presume this is childish harassment and not terrorism. I hope.

We have noted a number of nice castles and hill towns as we move down the coast. Some of them were build by the Knights Templar during the crusades. This is interesting to Beth and I, as we recently joined the Knights. We will check them out and get a few pictures.

Our best to all. Adios!

Sabbatical Europe 2003

We took six months off in 2003 - a Sabbatical. Flew around the world, bought this little car in Germany and drove around Europe for 4 months.

Switzerland - Meeting the Relatives

Ancestral home of the Hullingers / Hollingers / Holligers - Hallvill, Seegun, Bonisvil Eglisvill, Canton Argau, east of Zurich, north of Luzerne.

This is my favorite part of Switzerland. (Beth points out that Craig's love for this area is in part because his ancestors left the area in 1735 to emigrate to the US. It is unspoiled and uncrowded, and undiscovered by most tourists. The small lake of Hallvil has excursion boats that tour the lake during the day, providing convenient access to all parts of the Lake.

It boasts the charming castle of Hallwyl, located on Lake Hallwil. The castle is small and easily visited, and boasts excellent English translation phones that work well. The charming towns of Hallvill, Seegun, Bonisvil, and Eglisvill are nearby - these are the towns that the Holligers lived in, beginning with Henri in 1425. Our ancestor immigrated to Pennsylvania in 1735.

The high part of our visit was spending two evenings with Elizabeth & Elizabeth & Christoph Holliger. We had met Elizabeth 19 years before and had a nice visit. We had walked into Elizabeths place of business in 1984, announcing that we "were her cousins, from the US.” We compared our respective geneologies, and had determined that we were distantly related from the 1600's. Elizabeth brought her son and daughter in law, and we joined them for dinner on two occasions. So Christoph and I had the distinct pleasure of dining with three lovely Elizabeths.

Our Swiss cousins are very charming, intelligent and well educated. Elizabeth is now retired from her long career running Fruettiger-Holliger. Christoph is a Professor of Physics and his wife Elisabeth works in mental health.

Christoph is a rennaisance man. In addition to being a PhD, he is the Director of International Relations for the Fachhochscule Aarau, University of Applied Science. He completed a project in Bolivia providing solar hot water and potable water for poor areas and will travel this year to India to work on a project in that country. He built his own energy efficient home, complete with his own sheep, chickens, garden, and home made schnaps. He also weaves and is a skilled artist. Beth was interested in how alike Christoph is to his American cousins.

The Seehotel Hallwil is located on the east side of the lake in the town of Meisterschwanden. It has great rooms overlooking the lake, a fine restaurant, and friendly staff.

Switzerland is a picture book country, with magnificent mountains, beautiful lakes, great trails, and quaint towns. The country has four official languages (German, French, Italian, and Romanch), and many people speak several of these languages plus English.

The Country is small, and you see a great deal in a few days. We enjoy simply wandering the country, taking in the sites.

Luzerne is a beautiful city, overlooking a beautiful river, lake, and Alps. You can easily spend a few days here. But when the weather is fine, you want to be outside and in the country.

On fine days, we take to the hills, and ride a ski lift up the Alps. Many areas have paths and trails that you can take around the mountains, and back to your car or train station. Make sure you get a usable map, and that you choose a trail that does not exceed your abilities.

Geneva is in the French portion of the country, located on Lake Geneva. We drove into Lake Geneva from France, took the train to Florence for the third and final time to pick up my computer, then back to Geneva.

APRIL 16, 2003

War Protests

It has been interesting following the war from Europe.
I (Craig) volunteered to go again, and once again the
Marine Corps politely and obliquely indicated that
"don't call us, we will call you." Most of my old
Squadron has been activated and are in the Gulf.

It seems that most of Europe is against the War. I
certainly have mixed feelings about it, but the Brits
and we end up defending the coalition position against
European opinion.

On April 16, 2003 Beth and I were in Florence, and
happened on an American Anti War Demonstration along
the Arno River. There were about 34 protestors, with
signs that identified their State, and saying that the
War was "NOT IN OUR NAME".

They were mostly older; well meaning kind of washed out
people. There were more Italian cops at the
demonstration than protestors. There were about ten
people watching the demonstration. They used a bullhorn
to explain their thoughts. One of the speakers told the
crowd that the Bush family was tied into terrorist
organizations. Nobody in the crowd challenged that, so
it was obvious that many were from the lunatic fringe.

Another fellow talked about all the burning or theft of
rare manuscripts in Baghdad, and how we have lost our
patrimony. He neglected to advise that the Iraqis did
all of this.

I (Craig) thought about telling them what I thought of
all this, but it would have been pointless. They have
the right to their opinion, and my point of view
certainly would not change their views. They even have
the right to protest in a foreign country. I think it
is pretty tacky that they were doing it while our
troops were fighting and dying, but that is their
right. However, while if may be their right to protest,
it is certainly not right to protest now. I (Beth)
allowed Craig to attend the protest. He was allowed
only on the condition that he not fight with anyone. I
also told him that he needs to remember that unlike
Vietnam, we divide the policy maker from the military
in our thinking now.

The day before I (Beth) was accosted by a person in
Geneva, Switzerland, who overheard her at the coffee
counter, and asked if she was American. I told him "I
am." He then told me to "Piss on Your Bush". I think he
was unaware of the double meaning of his comment, and
meant the comment only for President Bush. I gave him a
piece of my mind, and he backed off. Whatever my
political position, I defend my country.

We were also in Rome for the 1,000,000-person Peace
march last month before the war started. Seems like the
entire country was against the war. Just like Vietnam.
Two kids gave us dirty stares, Beth stared back, and
they flinched. (She scares me; too, so it was not
surprising they were scared.)

I (Beth) might note that on our return to Italy, after
a month, we find the same number of Peace signs as
before. Every apartment building has large numbers of
Peace flags.

All these protests remind me (Craig) of Vietnam. Three
Marine Lieutenants and I saw a very large anti war
protest in 69 or 70 in the Mall of Washington DC. The
four of us were in OCS, with our bald haircuts, and no
one dared give us any grief. But they certainly were
watching us.

I also saw a very small anti war protest at University
of Illinois Chicago campus in 1972. Three protesters
marched into a small out door sitting area where a
number of us were enjoying a sunny afternoon. A film
crew followed them from a Chicago news station. They
ranted for a while with their bullhorn. A vet with a
red beard starting verbally harassing them. One of the
three peaceful protestors slugged the guy. Pretty
funny. The campus police separated them, and they
announced that they "were marching to city hall". The
station put the demonstration on the news that night.
They never indicated that there were only three
protestors at the event.

Semper Fi